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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.